ReNe: osore-zan [june 2005]

The picture above was not taken at a beach, in fact, it is nowhere near an ocean or even at ground level.

It was taken at Osore-zan (恐山), a sacred volcano in Aomori, Japan. According to Japanese tradition, Osore-zan, a barren volcanic wasteland, is the gateway to hell. Making the trip there can be quite a hassle (the transfer of trains and buses alone will take up half a day), but the entire experience and destination are well worth it.

The lake in the picture above is Lake Usoriyama (宇曽利山湖), a caldera lake or volcanic crater lake. The white sandy beach might look inviting in the picture, but the water is actually full of sulfur and other mineral deposits, and is far too poisonous to sustain any life. The heavy miasma of sulfur dioxide hangs in the air, and the atmosphere of the place is sombre and poignant. This is where the Japanese come to pray for their dead, especially their dead children.


All around the barren landscape of Osore-zan, there are jizo statues; Jizo is the patron saint for dead children. Bibs and head-scarves adorn the statues, and colorful plastic windmills spin in the wind. These simple toys were left for the spirits of the dead children.

The entrance to Osore-zan.

Jizo statues.

Directions: Take the JR train to Hachinohe (a major station; the shinkansen stops there) and change onto a Limited Express train to Noheji (30mins). Then change to the JR Ominato line to Shimokita station (1hr), and then again to the Shimokita-Kotsu line until Tanabu (7mins). Alternatively, if you start from Aomori, there are direct trains to Shimokita station (90mins). Tanabu station is located in the town of Mutsu; once in Mutsu, there are hourly buses to Osore-zan (1hr). That's a lot of transfers, but the trains pass through parts of Aomori that are quite rustically scenic. Note that about 45mins into the bus journey, which is even more scenic as the bus wends its way along the lush mountainous region, the bus will stop for passengers to rinse their hands and mouth. Before entering a temple or sacred area, you're suppose to do cleanse yourself, but there is no fresh water at the top of Osore-zan so this would have to suffice.

The trains will get progressively smaller and slower as you transfer until you end up riding just one carriage.